Rice, Kazak style

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lamb chops with roasted potatoes.[Photo by Mike Peters/]

A plate of pilaf is just the start of a homestyle Central Asian feast, Mike Peters discovers.

Even in China, it's a little surprising to hear so much fuss about a restaurant's rice dish. But ask anyone who's been to Astana, which lays claim to being Beijing's first Kazak restaurant, and you'll almost certainly get a misty-eyed rave about the pilaf.

Also known as "plov" and "pilau", this hearty rice dish is a staple in most of Central Asia. There are Russian versions, Uzbek versions, Chinese versions from the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region and a San Francisco version courtesy of Rice-a-Roni.

Astana's robust version has strong hints of cumin and chili and a satisfying amount of tender lamb chunks on top of a platter that goes for an eminently reasonable 35 yuan ($5.60).

Other starchy offerings include fried Kazak bread and the more exotic hychina flatbread, a yummy curiosity soaked in melted cheese.

We'd been advised to try the dumplings as a starter, and found the succulent steamed packages of meat and pumpkin nearly large enough to make a meal on their own. There are meat-only and vegetable-only versions as well.

As befits its location in the capital's hopping Russian district around Ritan Park - and Kazakhstan's real-life proximity to Russia - the restaurant is influenced by the neighborhood.

In fact, Astana plays that like a trump suit, deftly serving up steaming bowls of borscht - the beet soup staple of the Russian heartland - as winsome as any in town.

Shanghai butterfly

Hengshan hideaway

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[Photo by Mike Peters/]

You get a big portion redolent with dill and nice bits of meat, a hearty warm-up for the meal to come even after Beijing's lingering chill finally dissipates.

We also sampled a Kazak clear soup, in which a single sheet of noodle floated with tender mutton. It was a bit salty for our taste, but that inspired us to drink more of the excellent Russian beer on offer, so we were forgiving on that score.

The restaurant has a full bar, and nearby tables clinked with toasts fueled from all sorts of exotic-looking bottles.

For our entree with the pilaf, we opted for one of the fried-chicken options. This was not the battered and deep fried style of the American South. Colonel Sanders might not recognize it at all.

In this home-style dish, the chicken is sliced into bite-size pieces and sauteed with potatoes and eggs. The result is a borderline omelet, fragrant with garlic and deliciously filling.

We also sampled a tasty plate of lamb chops served with roasted potatoes and fresh onion slices. A small "spicy carrot salad" didn't have much kick, but the simple strands of marinated vegetable added crunch and color to the meal.

The restaurant's ambience is very pleasant, with comfortable booth seating and background sound that varies from our Friday night troubador singing in English to Fashion TV and Russian pop soundtracks. Servers are kitted out in charming ethnic garb and unflagging smiles, a vibe that is inevitably contagious.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@.

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Hengshan hideaway

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[Photo by Mike Peters/]

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Hengshan hideaway

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Fried chicken is sauteed with potatoes and egg for an omeletlike entree. Astana's popular pilaf is in back.[Photo by Mike Peters/]

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[Photo by Mike Peters/]

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Hengshan hideaway

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Hearty meat and pumpkin dumplings.[Photo by Mike Peters/]

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Orignal From: Rice, Kazak style

Authentic Mexican hits the mark

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Cantina Agave's signature dishes include crispy Baja fish tacos and Too Hot Tamales. [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

Authentic Mexican food in Beijing - is it possible? Cantina Agave thinks it is, and has sated the cravings of many by opening a branch of the restaurant in Beijing.

More than 600 guests filled the two-level taqueria and tequila bar for its opening party. Since then, the Sanlitun venue has been swamped with restaurant-goers eager to sample authentic Mexican food.

We opted to visit on a Tuesday evening to avoid the crowds that make Cantina Agave reservation-only dining over the weekend.

Good things come in small packages, and this was certainly true of the standout dish of the evening: Too Hot Tamales.

There were gasps of delight at our table when the extraordinarily cute little parcels arrived. Chinese diners will note the similarity of Tamales to Dragon Boat Festival's signature dish, zongzi.

While zongzi is made with glutinous rice and wrapped in bamboo leaves, tamales are made with masa, fresh corn and wrapped in corn husks.

Cantina Agave's version was filled with a tasty beef and tomato mixture, and served with a fresh, piquant salsa.

While their presentation is a bit different to that of the street stalls in Mexico, the flavor is remarkably similar - a tasty and fragrant filling surrounded by soft, but not soggy, corn masa that provided the perfect texture to each bite.

Arriving before 7pm meant we were able to sample the generous happy hour specials, including the offer of all-you-can-eat corn chips to accompany the inventive salsa bar - a selection of 12 salsas that includes the classic Salsa Verde and new favorites, such as mango and black bean.

We sampled salsas over margaritas that packed a real tequila kick. Margaritas are served both frozen and on ice, and drinkers can choose from a selection of flavors - classic lime, strawberry, mango and passion fruit. We tried them all.

Finished with the salsa bar and corn chips, we moved onto the food menu featuring all the Mexican favorites.

Rice, Kazak style

Bites of Italy satisfy in Beijing 

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Macho Nachos [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

Diners be warned - serving sizes at Cantina Agave are gigantic, so come hungry.

First up was Macho Nachos, house-made corn chips covered with well-seasoned meat, fresh salsa, refried beans, and melted cheese topped with a generous dollop of sour cream and guacamole that, despite its size, disappeared quickly.

We ordered a half portion, but the mammoth helping could easily serve as a main course.

Surf 'n' turf tacos featured a role reversal: Instead of the usual steak topped with prawns, at Cantina Agave tequila prawns are fried in batter and topped with strips of marinated steak.

Accompanied with avocado, sun-dried tomatoes, onions and a horseradish-chipotle sauce served on corn tortillas, the tacos were a mouthful, but worth every bite.

Despite the generous portions, we weren't quite stuffed enough, so we ordered a serve of the crispy Baja fish tacos.

Served on a flour tortilla and a bed of shredded cabbage, the fried fish fillets were crunchy on the outside and soft and juicy on the inside but had a strange aftertaste - possibly a result of the source. But this is easily overlooked the second you take another bite, when the chipotle Baja sauce takes over your taste buds and dances the Jarabe Tapatio with them.

To finish we shared the Cantina Flan - a taste of heaven. A Mexican creme caramel, the egg custard was flawlessly smooth, effortlessly creamy and topped with a sinfully sweet dark caramel sauce with a burnt sugar aroma. This is a dessert not to be overlooked.

Cantina Agave is situated over two levels with an impressive display of tequila behind the bar. Its interiors are a chic take on the Hacienda aesthetic, and the staff is welcoming and efficient.

Rice, Kazak style

Bites of Italy satisfy in Beijing 

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Surf 'n' turf tacos [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

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Crispy Baja fish tacos [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

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Cantina flan [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

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Margarita [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

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The tequila wall [Photo by Erin Johnson/For ]

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Orignal From: Authentic Mexican hits the mark

When smelly is good

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Douzhi'er, a stinky bean juice loved by old Beijingers, has plenty of health benefits.

One man's food is another man's poison. Many people consider douzhi'er, fermented bean juice, as Beijing's most typical traditional drink. But consumers hold radically different opinions about it.

"A non-local customer once approached me, and asked softly:'Has your drink gone bad?'" recalls Liu Chunping, manager of Jin Xin Douzhi'er Restaurant. The Muslim shop always has a long line of customers on weekends.

Liu Chunping cooks douzhi'er at Jin Xin Douzhi'er Restaurant in Beijing. Photos by Ye Jun /

Douzhi'er, made from green beans, goes through several days of fermenting before it is served. Therefore, the smell is not appetizing. But to many old Beijingers, it is their favorite drink and addictive.

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It tastes sour at first, reminding one of vinegar, but one will relish the aftertaste of green bean fragrance.

It is said that to the best way to know if one is a Beijinger is to invite him or her to drink a bowl of douzhi'er. If the person frowns and spits the drink, he or she is definitely not a genuine Beijinger. But if the person smiles and finishes it, then he or she is.

Beijinger Han Ping has a bottle of douzhi'er in her refrigerator all year round. "In summer, I'll drink it cold. It relieves summer heat, and quenches thirst," she says. "In winter, you can drink it when it's very hot so that you sweat and feel comfortable in the stomach area."

Like tea, there are some rules in drinking douzhi'er, she says.

Douzhi'er must be accompanied by jiaoquan'er, a crispy ring of dough, and pickle slices.

The fragrant crispy dough ring balances the sour taste of the bean juice, while salty pickle slices complete the combo.

Han says in the past, douzhi'er was a poor people's drink.

"It dispels excessive heat in the body, helps with digestion, and prevents cold," she says. "It helps people stay well in all four seasons."

Liu Chunping says before 1949, rickshaw pullers would buy a bottle of douzhi'er, and drink it the whole day. A bowl of douzhi'er, which used to cost just two fen (the smallest unit of the Chinese currency), and two steamed buns makes a meal for a poor Beijinger.

The history of Beijing douzhi'er dates back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). It is said that it was the favorite drink for Manchurians in the Baqi garrison. It was so popular that eventually the Qing emperor and empress dowager both ordered it from the imperial kitchen, to relieve the feeling of greasiness from eating too much meat. Since then what was a cheap drink for the poor became popular also for the rich.

But times have changed. Not only do some tourists find douzhi'er very hard to swallow, some young Beijingers no longer drink it.

Han Ping says douzhi'er smells like smelly bean curd. And she says it is an acquired taste. "After that, chances are they will become addicted to it," she says.

Liu Xushui, 50, a Hebei province native, who has lived in Beijing for 30 years, is a fan of the smelly bean juice. He says he used to have indigestion problems, and he always felt stomach discomfort when he over ate, or drank cold beverages. But after years of drinking douzhi'er regularly, his stomach problems have disappeared.

The health benefit of douzhi'er could be attributed to the properties in green beans. Chinese medicine believes green beans can dispel heat and have a detoxification function. Douzhi'er is believed to be rich in vitamin C and vegetable protein. The fermentation process might have generated beneficial bacteria too.

Liu has worked for Jin Xin Douzhi'er Restaurant for six years as a douzhi'er chef. His job scope is to prepare precooked green bean juice to the restaurant, where it will then be boiled and served.

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There is also a set of rules in producing douzhi'er.

The bean drink comes from the process of making green bean starch, when the dried vegetable is ground to powder and mixed with water. In the process, the mixture forms into three layers — the bottom is starch, the top is clear water, and the middle part is what will become douzhi'er.

A bowl of douzhi'er is served with jiaoquan'er, a crispy ring of dough, and pickle slices at the restaurant. Photos by Ye Jun /

What makes douzhi'er special is the fermentation process. Liu Xushui puts the bean soup into stainless steel buckets, covers it with cloth and leaves it for natural fermentation. He says in summer the process takes one day and two nights, and in winter it usually takes two days and two nights.

The expert chef will then taste to judge if it has the right sourness and proper texture, before sending the drink to the restaurant.

The 52-year-old Liu Chunping uses two bronze buckets to boil douzhi'er. One is a big 35-liter bucket, and another a small 15-liter bucket. The green bean soup is poured into the small bronze bucket, which is put into the big barrel with water in it. The small barrel of bean soup is actually heated by hot water to prevent over heating. The process is similar to double boiling soup.

Each time a chef only pours a small amount of bean juice into the bronze bucket. When it seethes he will pour a bit more inside, until it seethes again. A bucket of bean soup will take between 45 and 50 minutes to boil. During the whole time, the chef will need to stir the soup continuously to prevent the liquid from solidifying.

For that much effort, a bowl of douzhi'er costs only 1.50 yuan (24 cents) at Liu's restaurant.

The restaurant was located at Qianmen Dajie. But it closed down in 2000, when there was a major renovation. Recently Bian Yi Fang Group re-opened Jin Xin near the north gate of Temple of Heaven.

Beijing Time-honored Brands Association has named douzhi'er as the champion in a list of traditional Beijing xiaochi or "snacks". In June 2007, douzhi'er was granted the status of Beijing city level intangible cultural heritage. Liu Xushui, along with 30 other Beijing snack inheritors, has been given the title of "master".

 

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Orignal From: When smelly is good

Bites of Italy satisfy in Beijing

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Tiramisu [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

Eatalia in Di'anmen is a fine place for intimate celebrations. From the time you enter, you feel welcome and relaxed, despite the fine-dining setting that includes mood lighting and crisp white tablecloths. A large bar at the front of the restaurant is a fine place to wait for the rest of your party to arrive whilst enjoying a glass wine.

Once seated, we let the menu distract us with its modern Italian offerings.

The caprese salad is well- presented, the mozzarella fresh and the basil fragrant, but the portion is too small for sharing - if you're looking to share more than a bite, a pizza would be a better entree choice.

The pizza is one of the best in Beijing, we all agreed. The crust is beautifully light and crispy, brushed with a tomato base that was beyond reproach, wonderfully fresh and seasoned. Both the salsiccia (sausage) and the margherita pizza disappeared rapidly from the plates they came in on.

If a soup course is something you are considering, then look no further than the broccoli and mushroom soup. This bowl provided a rich, creamy mouthful of mushroom-cheesy bliss, but left no trace of broccoli on the tongue.

For mains, our table concentrated on the extensive ravioli menu. While each of the pasta's tasted good, none was brilliant. There seems to be an overreliance on parsley as a garnish, when a simple swirl of olive oil and some freshly cracked black pepper might have done the job better.

The Milano ravioli, filled with a very sweet pumpkin mixture, was supposed to come with a sage-butter sauce. Unfortunately, not a hint of sage could be detected, leaving the pumpkin to languish on its own in the unseasoned pasta pocket.

A ravioli that boasts speck (smoked prosciutto) and taleggio cheese as its filling will no doubt turn out quite salty. A balancing act is required of the sauce it is served with, but the "creamy tomato porchetta sauce" served with the Lombardia ravioli was disappointing.

Legacy of the salt merchants

Shanghai butterfly

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Torta Caprese [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

What this dish needs is a fresher and smoother sauce - and a healthier splash of it atop the pasta couldn't hurt, either.

The Torino ravioli was the white horse riding down to save the pasta. Though small in size, this knight came in the form of slow-cooked pork shank and creamy mushroom pasta bundles that gifted us with a rich buttery flavor that neither hid nor overextended the meat and mushroom within.

Desserts are a must at Eatalia. We ordered an indulgent, seemingly effortless panna cotta that would not quit with its heavenly creaminess and silky texture.

Tiramisu was creatively served in a champagne flute with just a few espresso-soaked sponge fingers surrounded by cream, which one of our party devotedly scraped every last vestige of from the bottom of the glass.

The Torta Caprese, made with ground almonds and Belgian chocolate, was texturally intriguing with the grainy almond and the smooth chocolate creating a sort of paste-cum-cake, similar to marzipan, which allowed the richness of the milk chocolate to move around my taste buds like a sweet, sensory wave.

Though it still has a few things to work on, in the end Eatalia provides a tasty, warming meal in comfort with friends.

sundayed@

Legacy of the salt merchants

Shanghai butterfly

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Margherita pizza [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

 

Legacy of the salt merchants

Shanghai butterfly

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[Photo by Fan Zhen/]

 

Legacy of the salt merchants

Shanghai butterfly

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[Photo by Fan Zhen/]

 

Legacy of the salt merchants

Shanghai butterfly

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[Photo by Fan Zhen/]

 

Legacy of the salt merchants

Shanghai butterfly

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Panna cotta [Photo by Fan Zhen/]

 

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Shanghai butterfly

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[Photo by Fan Zhen/]

 

Legacy of the salt merchants

Shanghai butterfly

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[Photo by Fan Zhen/]

 

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Orignal From: Bites of Italy satisfy in Beijing