food cooking: Cafe Deco remains a favorite, despite the naysayers

Cafe Deco remains a favorite, despite the naysayers

With dollops of mint yogurt and baby spinach, Moroccan lamb pizza is a signature dish at Cafe Deco Pizzeria. Rebecca Lo / For

Cafe Deco remains a favorite, despite the naysayers

Elegant duck brings high note to Haidian

Steak in the heart

Authentic cuisine is a hot topic lately, and with good reason. Foodies don't want "Chinese versions" of pizza and pasta when the real thing made by Italian chefs is so readily available.

That is perhaps why Cafe Deco has always suffered a somewhat chilly reception among local gourmands. Ever since the first outlet by founders Graeme Reading and Martin Allies opened on The Peak almost two decades ago, Cafe Deco Group has tried to be all things to all people.

Its venues are stylish without being trendy; its menus will never offend anyone; and it has a wide selection of international cuisines to choose from. It is a popular choice among expats and tourists precisely because it is a safe bet for a night out. With the October opening of Cafe Deco Pizzeria in Elements shopping mall, it brings another option to an audience always looking for the next new restaurant.

Elements itself has undergone a remarkable transition in recent years. More family-friendly and casual eateries are popping up to cater to the increasing number of residents and mid-level office workers who frequent the mall. Cafe Deco Pizzeria fits right into this demographic, with an open, breezy space and tables spilling out into the shopping corridor.

I arrived early for our lunch and took the extra time to thoroughly check the place out. Its location is strategic: right above the indoor ice skating rink and below the cinemas - both prime entertainment venues filled with hungry people. Right behind the tables lining the restaurant's facade is a long bar perfect for after-work drinks and snacks. The bar also cleverly provides privacy for the rest of the restaurant's table seating, which consists of benches for large groups and smaller tables for more intimacy.

I enjoyed the chunky wooden tables paired with gray metallic chairs and barstools, and the gray-brick backdrop with task lamps as whimsical components of chandeliers. The open kitchen with thick sausages and hams suspended above it boasted a humming wood-burning pizza oven to one side.

Cafe Deco remains a favorite, despite the naysayers

Calamari Fritti. Rebecca Lo / For

Cafe Deco remains a favorite, despite the naysayers

Elegant duck brings high note to Haidian

Steak in the heart

A scan of the drinks list revealed more than half a dozen wines by the glass priced from HK$68 ($8.77) to HK$128. Bottles were predominantly from Australia and New Zealand with a few French and Italian labels. There were also signature cocktails, including a sparkling mango concoction that I fancied trying. I also noticed that daily lunch specials were available with starter, choice of four mains and dessert ranging from HK$138 to HK$168.

By then, the rest of my friends had arrived and we decided to try a few starters before the main attractions of pasta and pizzas.

Calamari fritti was served in a small metal pot and came with a wedge of lemon. I liked how the creamy aioli complemented the deep-fried squid's natural sweetness, and admittedly popped more into my mouth than my fair share.

Pan-roasted scallops were topped with generous slices of Parma ham and accompanied by a simply dressed mesclun salad. They were savory and succulent, with the seafood's tenderness offset by the crispy, robust ham.

I was determined to try Cafe Deco Pizzeria's signature dish of Moroccan lamb pizza, as lamb on a pizza is something I've never experienced. The lamb was juicy and its gamey pungency was offset by dollops of mint yogurt. I particularly loved the baby spinach that gave the dish a splash of color and enhanced texture.

Beef ragout rigatoni was a hearty accompaniment to the pizza. The pasta's ridges and hollow center were full of the rich and meaty tomato-based sauce, and the sprinkle of Parmigiano Reggiano gave the dish bite.

We finished with rocky-road calzone, an inventive take on the traditionally savory Italian pie. Topped with a yummy chocolate sauce and a sprinkle of tiny marshmallows, its flaky pastry went well with the vanilla ice cream on the side.

I concluded that despite Cafe Deco Pizzeria's lack of an Italian chef, it was still delicious soul food that I can return to again and again.

Cafe Deco remains a favorite, despite the naysayers